Oaxaca Day of the Dead 2021: The ULTIMATE Travel Guide

Sep 13, 2020 | 34 comments

Is Oaxaca Day of the Dead on Your Mexico bucket list?

Well then, you are indeed a wise traveler!

Oaxaca (pronounced wa-ha-kah) is truly one of the best travel destinations in Mexico; one not enough people have experienced. Its most popular cultural celebration, Dia de Muertos, is a Mexico bucket list experience for so many.

Let me just say from firsthand knowledge — it totally lived up to the hype.

You’ve landed in the right place to learn all about how to plan your trip to Day of the Dead in Oaxaca, Mexico, because I went to the 2018 celebration. Now, I’m sharing all my Dia de los Muertos and Oaxaca travel tips, so you can have as amazing of a time as I did.

Prefer podcasts? This article is now available as a Day of the Dead podcast.

By the end of this article, you’re going to have a lot of knowledge about Oaxaca City, where the festival takes place. As Day of the Dead takes is just two days long, November 1-2, many stick around Oaxaca City for a few extra days, or head to the beautiful beaches of Oaxaca to lengthen the trip.

🏝 Head here for a complete Oaxaca City to Puerto Escondido travel guide.

Besides that, you’ll discover everything from the history of Day of the Dead, to the symbolism of things like ofrendas (altars), sugar skulls and La Catrina herself; you’ll learn which Oaxaca cemeteries to visit, and where to stay in Oaxaca City — in short, we’re covering everything you need ton know for an epic Dia de los Muertos trip.

Ready to learn about all things Oaxaca Day of the Dead? Let’s get to it!

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oaxaca day of the dead

Planning for Day of the Dead 2021

Where is Oaxaca?

Oaxaca state is located in south central Mexico, and Oaxaca City is in the center of the state. It is the capital city, as well as the cultural, historic, artistic and agricultural hub of all Oaxaca state.

You may hear Oaxaca City referred to by a few names. Officially, it’s Oaxaca de Juarez, though most people say Oaxaca.

As Oaxaca is both the name of the city and state, you may want to clarify when someone says “Oaxaca” as to where they are referring to.


How do I get to Oaxaca City?

Oaxaca International Airport (OAX), located just 20-30 minutes from Downtown Oaxaca, has direct flights from U.S. including Dallas/Fort Worth, Houston, LA and Chicago.

If you’re already in Mexico, you can catch a connecting flights from the major hubs of Mexico City, Tijuana, Cancun, Guadalajara and Monterrey.

For those coming from the beaches of Oaxaca, head here for a complete travel guide that covers all the options you have for Puerto Escondido to Oaxaca City travel.

Book your Oaxaca Airport transfer, or, once you arrive to OAX, take a short taxi or colectivo (shared shuttle) ride to your accommodation. The colectivo costs about $2-3USD per person, and a private taxi will be about $10-15USD total. You’ll easily find both options as soon as you walk outside of the airport.

🚕💨 Pro Tip: There’s no Uber in Oaxaca, but there are plenty of taxis and some public transportation options.

Oacaxa Car rentals

If you’re just staying in the city, don’t bother with a rental car.

For those who will need to rent a car in Oaxaca, double check the parking policy at your accommodation so that you won’t have to pay extra to park.

If you’re planning to explore Oaxaca before/after Day of the Dead, a car will certainly come in handy, and the airport is the best place for car rentals in Oaxaca City.

Mexico City to Oacaxa Bus

Mexico City is located about 7-8 hours by bus from Oaxaca City, with overnight trip options.

If you’re looking into the buses, check for luxury class tickets through Mexico’s largest bus company, ADO; the luxury tickets are a little more expensive, but a lot more comfy.

Mexico City to Oacaxa Flights

Domestic flight travel within Mexico is quick, convenient, and relatively inexpensive on low cost carriers like AeroMexico, Volaris and VivaAerobus.

For example, the bus from Mexico City to Oaxaca costs about $35USD, and can take eight hours. However, you can often find Oaxaca plane tickets for as little as $55USD, for the one hour flight.



There are two key things to keep in mind for Day of the Dead travel planning:

1. Book your accommodation as early as possible. Oaxaca City is a smaller town, and eventually, all Oaxaca hotels, and also Oaxaca hostels will eventually sell out. If you have particular needs when it comes to where you stay (ie. no stairs, bathtub), book early so you find a place that checks those boxes.

2. Book your tours as early as possible. If you’re looking to do a Day of the Dead tour in Oaxaca, you’ll want to book these well in advance also. For the most part, tours are kept small, and all end up selling out as well.


Best Neighborhoods in Oaxaca City

As they say — Location, location, location. Where you stay for Oaxaca Day of the Dead can either make, or break, your trip… so let’s get you in the “make” column.

For convenience of both having lots of amenities like restaurants, bars and pharmacies, all within walking distance, consider any of the three Oaxaca neighborhoods below.

🚕💨 Pro Tip: There’s no Uber in Oaxaca, though there are taxis. While taxis are usually easy to get, they take longer to hail during Dia de Muertos, the busiest time in to visit Oaxaca, Mexico.

colorful flags hung across from one side of the stree to the other in oaxaca city | day of the dead mexico
Historic Downtown Oaxaca is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

🏨 Click here to book your Oaxaca City hotel in Downtown!

Centro Historico (Downtown)

As with most cities, you can’t go wrong staying in or around Centro Historico, the Historic City Center, or Downtown. This is the area most Day of the Dead festivities take place, and a walkable part of town, so you won’t need to worry about catching a cab during this busy time in Oaxaca.

In Centro Historico, you’ll find some of the best hotels in Oaxaca, like Quinta Real Oaxaca ($$$$), Hotel los Amantes ($$$), Hotel Casona Oaxaca ($$), and Selina Hostel ($), known as one of the best hostels in Oaxaca City.


Located one neighborhood over from Downtown Oaxaca, you’ll find trendy, colorful Jalatlaco (pronounced ha-lat-lack-oh). This is a very safe ares, with amazing restaurants, cool street art and colorful, colonial buildings — like City Centro Hotel Oaxaca and Hotel Cazomalli Oaxaca.


Beyond these two, Xochimilco (pronounced so-chee-mill-co), located north of Centro, is another one of the best neighborhoods in Oaxaca City. This is the oldest, most historic Oaxaca neighborhood, so you’ll still get the colonial city feel in the buildings, but be further away from the crowds and noise.

🌺💀🌺 Travel Tip: Day of the Dead is LOUDDDD! You’ll want noise cancelling earbuds or noise cancelling earplugs to get a good night’s sleep during this festive holiday.

Colorful buildings in downtown Oaxaca City, Mexico
Colorful building and pinata
Yellow building with balcony


Oaxaca Day of the Dead Tours

As a lot of Mexican companies don’t have websites, so unless someone has recommended you a tour company by name, it’s not super easy to locate Day of the Dead tours online.

Since this festival also doesn’t have an official list of events posted online for you to research in advance, local tour guides are a game changer. They will know best to show you where to find the best cemeteries, comparsas (parades) and festivities taking place.

If you’re wanting to do a group tour, and you don’t want to spend hours (or days) searching for a Day of the Dead Oaxaca tour company, your best best is an Airbnb Experience — which you can book below right now.

These tours are all lead by Oaxaca locals, so you’re in good hands. Here are a few of the best tours in Oaxaca City, with a heavy focus on Day of the Dead and other uniquely Oaxacan cultural experiences.


What is Day of the Dead?

The first thing you need to know about Day of the Dead — it is not Mexican Halloween. Day of the Dead is, however, one of the most important holiday celebrations in Oaxaca, and in much of Mexico.

Unlike many present-day rituals around death, Day of the Dead is not a somber funerary event. On the contrary, Dia de Muertos is a celebration, one so grand even the deceased return to attend the party held in their honor.⁠

As this is a very cultural celebration, booking a tour with a Oaxaca City local is the way to go. However, even on days you don’t have a tour booked, you can just walk around downtown Oaxaca City and take in the visual magic that is Day of the Dead.


History of Dia de los Muertos

The holiday’s origins date back to the Aztec celebration of the goddess Mictecacihuatl, their Queen of the Underworld. Much like the current incarnation of Day of the Dead, the Aztec festival was a celebratory affair.

After Mexican colonization by the Spanish, who brought with them Christianity, the festival was moved from early-summer to fall. It’s new dates coincided with what Christians called Allhallowtide, another multi-day holiday commemorating the deceased.

Allhallowtide took place on October 31-November 2. The first day, October 31 was known as All Saints’ Eve; November 1, was All Saints’ Day; and November 2, was All Souls’ Day.

Day of the Dead cemetery with flowers and lit candles | oaxaca day of the dead in mexico
altar with wooden cross, marigold flowers, incense burning | oaxaca day of the dead in mexico
glowing skulls in different colors on a wall | oaxaca day of the dead in mexico

When is Day of the Dead?

Though it’s called “Day” of the Dead, the holiday takes place over two days each year, November 1-2, and the different days of the festival correspond to different spirits. As the spirits of our departed are said to return each day at midnight, many celebrations take place at night.

Since the first day of the celebration starts on November 1, the spirits will return at midnight, which is basically the night of October 31. Though this is technically the “eve” of Dia de Muertos, much like Christmas Eve, many consider it a festival day.

As you might imagine with such an elaborate affair, the Oaxaca City preparations begin at least a week prior. It’s really fun to see the city getting decorated with marigold flowers and watching the ofrendas (altars) being constructed, and visiting the cemeteries during the day.

• October 31

Though not an official festival day, many families observe October 31, the former All Saints’ Eve, by building elaborate ofrendas (altars) on the cemetery gravestone of their deceased loved one. As this is the eve of the souls returning, these preparations must be ready for the spirits’ arrival at midnight.

What to expect: There’s a lot of energy in town, as people are ready to officially celebrate after days and weeks of prep. Families visit the town’s cemeteries to decorate their loved ones’ graves and gravestones, and many put the finishing touched on the ofrendas (altars) outside of their homes on the street.

over-sized masks of skeleton faces | oaxaca day of the dead in mexico
skeleton of a baby surrounded by orange and magenta colored marigold flowers | oaxaca day of the dead in mexico
skeleton of a dog | oaxaca day of the dead in mexico

• November 1

What was formerly known as All Saints’ Day, is present-day Día de los Inocentes (Day of the Innocents) or Día de los Angelitos (Day of the Little Angels). This day is said to honor the children who have passed. The spirits of the angelitos returned the night before, at midnight, but parties continue all day.

What to expect: More celebrations in cemeteries, as well as comparsas (parades), ofrendas (altars) in the streets and other city-wide festivities. Basically, the entire town is decorated and you’ll want to consider just walking around for hours to eat delicious Oaxacan food and see everything.

🌮🍺 Need Oaxaca restaurant tips? Head here to get a FREE Oaxaca Map with 33 places pined so you can easily find all the best restaurants and places to drink mezcal in Oaxaca.

• November 2

Formerly known as All Souls’ Day, November 2 is the actual “Day” of the Dead. On this day, families and loved one celebrate the adults in their life who no longer walk the Earth. The spirits of all adults returned the night before, at midnight, but parties will continue all day.

What to expect: More celebrations in cemeteries, as well as comparsas (parades), ofrendas (altars) in the streets and other festivities. This will often be the most lively day of the holiday.


10 Day of the Dead Do’s and Don’ts

🟢 Do: Book your Oaxaca Hotel (or Oaxaca hostel) and Day of the Dead tours well in advance!

🟢 Do: Participate! This holiday is about remembering the deceased, so Oaxacan families love when you ask about their departed loved ones honored on the altars. When you see a parade going by, jump in and start dancing with the locals.

🟢 Do: Have a day where your only plan is to walk the city. During Day of the Dead in Oaxaca, the whole town is transformed for this giant party, so explore as much as you can while the decorations are up.

🟢 Do: Ask for permission to take photos. To err on the side of caution, get permission from families this in the cemeteries and at their ofrendas (altars), and when photographing people.

🟢 Do: Pack noise cancelling earbuds or noise cancelling earplugs to get a good night’s sleep during this festive holiday. Day of the Dead is basically a three-day party with music and celebrations city-wide.

🟢 Do: Carry cash on you at all times. In Mexico, cash is still king — and in Oaxaca City, many places don’t take cards. This is especially true with taxis, in local mercados (markets), and street vendors, which will all be cash only.

🛑 Don’t: Treat this as a tourist attraction! Day of the Dead is a centuries-old cultural tradition, so have fun, but know this is not the same thing as getting wasted on Burbon Street during Mardi Gras.

🛑 Don’t: On that note, don’t wear American-style costumes, and especially not the “sexy” variety — this is Dia de Muertos, not Halloween in the U.S.

🛑 Don’t: Touch or disturb anything, including altars, cemetery decorations, and sand art on the ground.

🛑 Don’t: Use flash photography anywhere. In fact, to be safe you’ll want to just turn your flash from auto to off so it doesn’t accidentally go off in the wrong moment.

human skeleton wearing traditional mexican poncho and crown sitting on a yellow bench | oaxaca day of the dead in mexico
skeleton woman wearing a fancy hat and dress standing in a balcony | oaxaca day of the dead in mexico
parade with oversized human skeleton dolls | oaxaca day of the dead in mexico

Day of the Dead Symbols & Customs

1. Day of the Dead Cemeteries

Oct. 31 is the date many families will begin to decorate gravestones in the cemetery. If you can swing it, try to be in Oaxaca City to see this, especially if you’re into travel photography. The biggest of Oaxaca City’s cemetery celebrations takes place at the Panteon General, also called the San Miguel Cemetery.

If you’re venturing outside of Oaxaca City, head to the Panteon Viejo and Panteon Nuevo in Xoxocotlan and the Panteon San Agustin Etla in San Agustin Etla. Both towns are known for lively celebrations, though you’ll want to have a tour booked, or transportation in place before going.

The pueblo San Agustin Etla, located about 35 minutes from Downtown Oaxaca, has the biggest, most wild comparsa and beautiful cemetery of them all. I went with a small tour group booked through the Argado Guest House Hotel, and we were probably among only of a handful of tourists at the San Agustin Etla comparsa.

skeleton holding colorful flags on a colorful altar | oaxaca day of the dead in mexico


2. Day of the Dead Sugar Skulls

One of the icons of this holiday is the Day of the Dead sugar skull. Ironically enough, these confectionary treats don’t really have Mexican (or even pre-Hispanic) roots, and come from Europe.

Italian Catholic missionaries brought sugar art to Mexico in the 1600s. Unlike Europe, Mexico is abundant in sugar and sugarcane, so it became a natural place for these molded sugar figures to take root and form their own traditions.

Small and large sugar skulls

During Día de Muertos, sugar skulls will be made in two sizes. The smaller ones are often placed on a gravestone in honor and remembrance the departed children. These bite-sized ones can also be eaten, used for in-home ofrenda (altar) decoration, and can be taken home as souvenirs.

The larger ones represent a departed person, and that person’s name is written on the forehead of the skull. You’ll usually see these more elaborate, larger sugar skills placed on an ofrenda or gravestone for that person’s returning spirit. These are not mean to be eaten.

colorful candy sugar skulls | oaxaca day of the dead in mexico
colorful candy sugar skulls | oaxaca day of the dead in mexico
colorful candy sugar skulls | oaxaca day of the dead in mexico


3. Marigold Flowers

The marigold flower, or cempasuchil (pronounced sem-pa-souch-ill), has been a part of this celebration dating back to its Aztec origins.

Throughout Mexico, marigolds are commonly referred to as flor de la muerto (flower of the dead) because of their close associations with the Day of the Dead holiday.

According to Aztecs beliefs, the flower’s bright color and strong scent served a sensory guide for the spirits, letting them know exactly where they should return.

altar with marigold flowers and incense burning in a carved bowl | oaxaca day of the dead in mexico
Cempasuchil, or marigold flowers, on a Day of the Dead ofrenda (altar), along with burning copal incense.


4. La Catrina: The Skeletan Woman

Besides Frida Kahlo, La Catrina might be the woman most commonly associated with Mexico. This elegant skeletal lady, who everyone paints their faces to look like, was born in 1910 when Mexican printmaker/illustrator Jose Guadalupe Posada first drew her.

He named this figure, La Calavera Garbancera (The Elegant Skull), and she was drawn as satirical social commentary. His dapper woman with her fancy feathered-hat was a critique of Mexican society at the time, when many Mexicans were aspiring to dress and act more European.

Posada saw this as a snub to the more humble, and traditional style of Mexican dress. He created his Calavera Garbancera character as a skeleton who would serve as a reminder that we all eventually die one day — whether we’re wearing fancy clothing or not.

La Catrina doll - skeletal woman in fancy feathered hat | oaxaca day of the dead in mexico
woman with her face painted to look like a skeleton for oaxaca day of the dead festival in mexico
La Catrina doll - skeletal woman in fancy feathered hat surrounded by flowers | oaxaca day of the dead in mexico

History of La Catrina

La Catrina’s transition into the official grand dame of Day of the Dead came after Mexican artist Diego Rivera (AKA Frida’s husband) painted her with a full-body and Victorian dress. Using a similar face, he took Posada’s La Calavera Garbancera and created who would become known as La Catrina.

Rivera’s 50-foot-long painting, Sueño de una tarde dominical en la Alameda Central (Dream of a Sunday afternoon in the Alameda Central), seen below, is the first-ever depiction of La Catrina. She is placed in the dead center of the painting (pun intended), with Rivera himself by her side.

mural painting by diego rivera of festive scene in a park with about 50 people
Diego Rivera’s painting, with La Catrina in the dead center — pun intended 💀. (Photo: WikiMedia)


5. Comparsas (Day of the Dead Parades)

You’ll hear a comparsa (parade) long before you see it coming, which is great because it gives you time to find it and join in.

Multi-instrument groups of costumed musicians join together to play festive Zapotec (native Oaxacans) music in the streets and lead processions throughout Oaxaca City.

The Grand Parade, or Magna Comparsa, is the one that opens the festival and goes all over the city.

After this one, the smaller comparsas are either coming from, or headed to a cemetery, and you can join in with any you see passing by.

woman with her face painted to look like a skeleton for oaxaca day of the dead festival in mexico


6. Ofrendas (Day of the Dead Altars)

Just walking the streets and alleyways of downtown Oaxaca City, you’ll see hundreds of ofrendas (altars). They are all decorated with marigold flowers, candles, copal incense and papel picado colorful paper flags.

You’ll also see photos of their loved ones and whatever food and drink they would want to consume on their arrival. They say when the dead return they will be hungry and thirsty from the journey, so we have to prepare accoringly.

skeleton holding colorful flags on a colorful altar | oaxaca day of the dead in mexico
oaxaca day of the dead altar in mexico
colorful altar for oaxaca city day of the dead celebration in mexico


7. Day of the Dead Sand Tapestries

In front of some ofrendas throughout Oaxaca City, you’ll find colorful and intricate tapetes de arena (sand tapestries). If you’re very lucky, you’ll even see as artist making one.

The tradition of sand art plays into the deeper meaning of Day of the Dead, that all things eventually blow away in the wind, or die.

For this reason, you’ll also see ground art made of other natural materials the wind can carry away, like marigold flower petals and even beans.

🌼 Pro tip: Each year, a different neighborhood hosts the annual Sand Tapestry Competition, so be sure to find out where the 2021 one will be!

flower petals rearranged into the shape of a flower as art | oaxaca day of the dead in mexico


8. Pan de Muerto (Day of the Dead Bread)

Pan de muerto (bread of the dead) is a type of bread roll/pastry that’s traditioanlly only made from about mid-September to mid-November for Day of the Dead. In Oaxaca, unlike the rest of Mexico, there is a small candy face placed in the center to represent a departed soul.

In most other parts of Mexico, the dough of the pan de muerto forms a cross shape on the top of the roll, and it’s topped with sugar. In Oaxaca City, the bread is topped with sesame seeds and isn’t as sweet. To sample some, head inside a panaderia (bakery) or be on the lookout for a street vendor.


Oaxaca, Mexico Travel FAQs

1. Is Oaxaca safe for travel?

Short answer: Yes!

Longer answer: Aside from drinking too much mezcal, you’re in little danger in Oaxaca. In fact, Oaxaca, is one of the safest states in Mexico. Oaxaca City is the country’s 67th largest city, with a population of about 275,000, but retains a humble pubelo (small town) vibe.

As no place on Earth is 100% safe, you’ll want to follow the 10 General Travel Safety Tips below — you know, the same ones you’d follow when traveling anywhere. You should also register for the STEP Program and put your mind at ease with travel insurance.


I attended Day of the Dead as a solo female traveler in Oaxaca, and felt very safe. However, I’ve done a lot of Mexico solo travel, and likely have a biased opinion. In an effort to add more solo female travel in Mexico voices to the conversation, check out Rebecca’s first hand account of safe solo travel in Oaxaca.

Mexico Travel Insurance

Wondering Should I get travel insurance for Mexico?

The answer is of course yes, it will give you an added level of security and peace of mind during these strange travel times.

Just as you insure your car, home and body, you can also insure your luggage, belongings and health while traveling. If Mexico and Oaxaca travel safety are on your mind, get your free quote below from World Nomads, one of the biggest names in travel insurance.

10 General Travel Safety Tips
  1. Don’t walk home alone at night if you can help it; take a taxi.
  2. Always listen to your intuition because your intuition is always right.
  3. If you get a sketchy or uneasy feeling about a person or place, get away from that person or place immediately. If you feel you’re in danger, don’t worry about making a kind, nice, or politically correct exit from a creepy person or bad situation — Just get away ASAP.
  4. Don’t keep your phone, keys, wallet, passport, or anything valuable in your back pocket.
  5. Learn some basic Spanish. If you can’t learn it, save the infographic below as an image on your phone so you have something to use even if you’re off-WiFi.
  6. Take all of your belongings into the bathroom with you, rather than asking a cafe/bar neighbor to watch your things.
  7. Speaking of bar neighbors, don’t take drinks from strangers and/or leave your drink unattended near one.
  8. Don’t wear flashy clothes, expensive jewelry, designer sunglasses, etc.
  9. Keep some cash in your pocket so you don’t have to pull your whole wallet out every time you need to pay.
  10. This should be a no brainer since you’re traveling during a pandemic, but get Travel Insurance!
List of useful spanish words and phrases

Register for the STEP Program

Make sure you enroll in the FREE STEP Program before your trip. The Smart Traveler Enrollment Program, or STEP, allows U.S. citizens traveling to Mexico to document your trip with the nearest U.S. Embassy or Consulate. In Tulum, that’s the Consular Agency in Playa del Carmen.

After you’ve registered, the U.S. Embassy or Consulate can contact you in the event of an emergency, including natural disasters, civil unrest, etc. STEP can also put you in touch with your family and friends back home, in the event of an emergency while abroad.

Do I need to speak Spanish to visit Oaxaca?

Many Oaxaqueños don’t speak English, however with so many U.S. and European tourists, they get by. If you stick to the popular areas of Oaxaca, like Oaxaca City, Puerto Escondido and Huatulco, tour operators and people in the service industry will speak English. However, when venturing off the beaten path in Oaxaca, you can expect little to no English.

However, it is good manners to learn at last some basic Spanish when traveling to Oaxaca. 🎧 Listen to Episode 13 of the podcast as travel blogger Elizabeth talk about how she learned eight languages, and gives great tips for how to learn language basics in easy, fun ways.

If learning Spanish isn’t in the cards for you, #NoJudgement! Pin and/or save the infographic below on your phone so you’ll always have the words and phrases you need, even if you’re off-WiFi.

List of useful spanish words and phrases

🇲🇽 Need Mexico travel safety info? This is the Mexico podcast for you!


2. Do I need a visa for Mexico?

No, U.S. passport holders don’t need a visa to travel to Mexico. This is just one reason Mexico is one of the best travel destinations for Americans.

When you arrive in Mexico and go through Immigration, you’ll receive a 180-day (6 month) FMM tourist card. This is a small piece of paper that you need to hold on to so you can give it back to an Immigration officer when you leave the country, so don’t lose your FMM!

3. What do I pack for Oaxaca?

For the most part, Oaxaca City is hot year-round with 80-90F° days, and 60-70F°s nights. With Oaxaca’s sunny, hot days, definitely pack a LifeStraw Filterable Water Bottle to stay hydrated, eco-friendly sunscreen to avoid sunburns, and if you plan on drinking a lot of mezcal, anti-hangover meds.

As far as how to dress, Oaxacans are modest dressers, so pants/jeans with sleeved tops are the norm, even on hot days. However, sundresses, flowy, breathable, cotton, and light-colored clothing works. At night, you’ll want a jacket and boots in Oaxaca City.

💃 Related Blog: The Ultimate Packing List for Mexico + FREE Printable Checklist

OAXACA weather

packing for day of the dead in oaxaca

Since it’s Dia de Muertos, you might want to pack a special dress or outfit (or both!) to enjoy the nighttime festivities. If you don’t have one, you can always head to a local Oaxaca City mercado (market), like Mercado 20 de Noviembre and Mercado Benito Juarez, to buy a dress.

Costumes are the norm for locals, and many do go all out, with traditional Oaxacan garments and face painting. However, this is not the place for American style costumes, and skimpy outfits.

You don’t need to bring all your makeup for La Catrina face painting, as you can just pay someone about $50 pesos ($3USD) on the street to do it. You, however, will want a good makeup remover!

You’ll also find plenty of vendors selling inexpensive flower crowns to complete the look. I bought two flower crown headbands for about $100 pesos ($5USD).

🌺 Pro tip: Head to one of the Oaxaca mercados mentioned above and look for a flower vendor selling fresh flower crowns.

🧳 FREE Printable Packing List for Mexico

Wondering exactly what to pack for Oaxaca and all of Mexico? Download your FREE printable packing list for Mexico below — it covers both Mexico beach packing and packing for Mexico cities. This multi-page Mexico packing checklist covers everything you’ll want to bring, and more importantly, what not to bring to Mexico.


Final Thoughts: Oaxaca Day of the Dead

Is Day of the Dead in Oaxaca worth It?

As it will take at least two flights, or a flight and a bus to get to, you might be wondering if traveling to Oaxaca Day of the Dead worth it.

The short answer is… can we curse around here!?… because FU+K YES IT IS.

Oaxaca, in a word, is magical. Oaxaca is the Mexico people imagine Mexico to be. This state has it all: rich history, gorgeous beaches, colorful festivals, UNESCO World Heritage Sites, locally-made mezcal, beautiful nature, colonial architecture, artisan communities — and of course, the food!

Mix all that with one of the most fun, beautiful, lively, cultural festivals on the planet, and you can’t go wrong with a Oaxaca trip to Dia de Muertos.

a word of warning:

The only caveat for going to Oaxaca Day of the Dead is you have to actually plan in advance. Oaxaca is a small town, and its hotels, hostels and Oaxaca Airbnbs will sell out, and so will all the Day of the Dead tours. If you make sure to book everything in advance, you’re in for the trip of a lifetime 🌺💀🌺

Have questions about Oaxaca Day of the Dead?

If there was anything I didn’t cover, please ask away in the comments down below!

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I’m Shelley, a former Miami travel magazine editor who ditched the office for the world!

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I’d L❤️VE to hear from you!


  1. Erin

    These photos are amazing!! I haven’t been to Mexico in about 3 years and after reading through your post I’m itching to go back. I actually won a free trip and haven’t used it yet, believe it or not. (Not to Oaxaca, but still…I need to start shopping for plane tickets soon.) Also…I would’ve never guessed sugar skulls didn’t originate in Mexico!

    • Shelley

      Hi Erin: I hope you use that free trip!!!

  2. Vanessa Shields

    What an excellent post! So many great tips especially about booking a place to stay and how to find a tour. I’ve always wanted to attend Day of the Dead. Maybe next year!

    • Shelley

      Hi Vanessa: Thanks for checking out the blog! You’re going to love Day of the Dead, but do try start your 2021 planning as soon as possible.

  3. Marika

    Great rad! I planned on visiting Day of the Dead this year, but obviously that isn’t happening. I will definitely have to save this for next year, This was super helpful!

  4. Patri

    One of my bucket list trips is to go to Mexico for Dia de Muertos, thanks for sharing!

  5. kmf

    Beautiful captures and such a comprehensive guide for traveling to Oaxaca and about the Day of the Dead celebration. I’ve traveled to Mexico 27x in the past 30 years and I’ve yet to visit this area and on this holiday. Once it’s safe to travel again, I will definitely make that happen!

  6. Sarah

    This is something I would LOVE to experience one day. There is something so beautiful about celebrating one’s life in such a grand way. Side note: The movie Coco made me bawl my eyes out. We can certainly learn a thing or two on the way we view death!

  7. Lana

    This is such an incredible in-depth post Shelley!! Day of the dead is on my bucket-list and i’m so excited even more now to visit Oaxaca!! I’ve never been to Mexico, but can’t wait to go! I cannot believe you need to book accommodation up to NINE months in advance, that’s insane! Such great tips!!! Also had no idea Air bnb experiences were a thing, defo checking that out!

    • Shelley

      Lana: Thank you for taking the time to comment ❤️ Yes, you really do have to book pretty far out for Day of the Dead! I’m now use to most people being shocked when I tell them that. Oaxaca is a pretty small town, so rooms fill up fast… especially the good ones.

  8. Nina Clapperton

    This is such a helpful guide! I never would have guessed that you have to book so far in advance or that most tours are in person bookings. Good to know for the future!

    • Shelley

      Hi Nina: Thanks for checking out the blog! Yes, Oaxaca City operates like a small town… the tour groups are always capped at small numbers and there’s really just only so many hotels/airbnbs/hostels to go around.

  9. Catherine @ To & Fro Fam

    I want to go to Oaxaca *so badly*!!! All your gorgeous photos just underscore my wanderlust. Thank you for sharing such in-depth details about this amazing region and the holiday.

    • Shelley

      Hi Catherine: Thank you for that nice comment! I hope you make it to Oaxaca soon. It was quite “hyped” as a travel destination, but I think it really did live up to that hype.

  10. Patti

    I absolutely LOOOOOOVE Dias de los Muertos. Especially with living in Los Angeles, CA, it’s very celebrated here as well.

    • Shelley

      Patti: It’s the best time in Mexico! I’m sure LA does a great celebration as well.

  11. Sarah Arnstein

    I remember always celebrating the Day of the Dead in Spanish Class growing up, but it would be SO COOL to celebrate in Mexico! These photos are beautiful.

    • Shelley

      Hi Sarah: Thanks for writing. I bet celebrating Dia de Muertos as a kid was just magical! I hope you can experience it in Mx one day.

  12. Rahma Khan

    I have read and heard so much about Day of the Dead that I really want to experience it now! Also, so happy to find a Mexico travel blog.. I’m planning a South America trip for next year so I am going to come back to this blog again! Thanks

    • Shelley

      Rahma: Thanks for writing!! I hope you get to experience Día de Muetros during your big South America trip.

  13. galatiacy

    girl, im SOLD! Incredible photos, awesome in-depth content too – and your love for the region shines through! I nearly visited in 2018 too, but was persuaded to switch to Belize for safety reasons – the fact you traveled 2years solo is ALLLL the proof i need that you can travel safely in Mexico too! Now patiently waiting for flights to reopen….

    • Shelley

      Hi there 💚 I’m happy to help you change your mind about Mexico! I’m not going to say it’s totally safe, as nowhere on earth is!!, but Mexico has been a very safe country for me. Hopefully this blog will be useful for you on your Mx trip.

  14. Taylor

    Been wanting to visit! I hear great things about Oaxacan food!

    • Shelley

      Hi Taylor: You’ve heard RIGHT!! Oaxaca is one of the foodie capitals of Mexico 🇲🇽 and you’re going to love eating there.

  15. Shelbs

    Reading your post reminds me of Mardi Gras in New Orleans!

    • Shelley

      Hi Shelbs: I have been to both Day of the Dead (in 2 cities in Mexico) and Mardi Gras (a few times, New Orleans is my favorite U.S. city)…. and you’re right, there’s definitely some overlap.

  16. Falke

    Going to Mexico for Dia de Muertos is def on my bucket list!! This seems like such a cool experience! And I love your photos!!

    • Shelley

      Hi Falke: You’re going to have such an amazing time! Day of the Dead is the best time to be in Mexico.

  17. Ildiko

    Very interesting post. I new a little about the Day Of the Dead from the Hispanic congregation that attended my church, but I never expected it to be so elaborate. Wow! What a celebration. I was fascinated to learn the specifics regarding how each of the three days is celebrated. You have many great recommendations for places to stay and how to arrange a tour. Nice post!!

  18. Melissa

    Very interesting! The Day of the Dead has always fascinated me since learning about it in high school. I would love to be able to visit Mexico while it is going on. The sugar skulls are fascinating and I would love to see the Sand Tapestries. It would be so cool to be able to see them being made. Thanks for sharing, very interesting post!

  19. Rachael Brown

    This is one of my favourite holidays, I really love the meaning behind too. There is so much more to day of the dead than just the makeup etc. I hope to experience it in Mexico one day!

    • Shelley

      Rachael: Thanks for writing! You are totally correct, the history of this holiday is quite interesting… sooo much more than just make-up. In fact, the make-up part is only about 50 years old, while the holiday is hundreds of years old & dates back to the Aztecs (who didn’t wear make-up during Day of the Dead).

  20. Theresa murray

    Great article! My son is taking me this year as a gift! He Knew I wanted to mark it off of my bucket list! We are going a few days early and leaving a few days after, so we have some explore time. He is fluent in Spanish and has wanted to go to Oaxaca for this for a few years. So excited, to be going this year and participate in their celebration!!

    • Shelley

      Hi Theresa, I’m so glad this article was helpful for you! I hope you enjoy crossing Day of the Dead off your bucket list… and if you need further Oaxaca info, check out my Traveling to Oaxaca, Mexico Guide.


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